build-guide.md

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Building your Winder

Make sure you've ordered all required materials first!

• You can find the Bill of Materials here

Assembly legend and definitions

• Text formatted like_this referes to a 3D printed model, by filename
• Text formatted like this (bold & italicized) referes to a purchased part from the Bill of Materials
• Bore - the long cylindrical hollow part of something. ¹
• Flush - smoothly aligned, not sticking out. ²

Watch Jig Assembly

⚠️ This assembly may require epoxy glue and sandpaper/filing. The driveshaft assembly is a tight, friction fit, and must be centered inside the jig’s bore.

Required parts:

• 4mm rod
• watch_jig model
• watch_jig_collar model
• watch_jig_driveshaft model

Steps:

1. Cut the 4mm rod to 110mm in length, then de-burr the ends with a file or sandpaper.
2. Test fit the watch_jig and watch_jig_collar. They should begin to push together by hand. If your printer is dialed in, these two parts will be a tight friction fit. Flip the assembly upside down and rest the collar against a flat surface. Place your thumbs overtop of the center of the watch_jig and push down. The watch_jig_collar should drive itself into the watch_jig’s body.
   • If the watch_jig and watch_jig_collar don’t fit together, lightly sand/file the lip of the watch_jig_collar until it fits inside the watch_jig’s bore.
   
3. Test fit the 4mm rod and watch_jig_driveshaft model. Again this will be a tight fit, but the rod should be able to move through the watch_jig_driveshaft’s bore with a twisting motion; hold the watch_jig_driveshaft and twist/push the metal rod through the bore. If this isn’t possible, file the watch_jig_driveshaft’s inner bore to fit.
   
4. Read the next step in full before you begin!
5. Do a partial test fit of the driveshaft/rod assembly and the jig/collar assembly. The driveshaft assembly should start to drive into the collar's bore with the same twist/push motion you used to drive the metal rod through the driveshaft. DO NOT FULLY SEAT THE ASSEMBLIES YET. Now do the following:
   • Remove the driveshaft assembly from the jig assembly again
   • Move the watch_jig_driveshaft to halfway down the 4mm Rod, like so
     
   • Apply a drop of epoxy glue inside the watch_jig_collar's bore with something small (ex. toothpick). Make sure the epoxy is at the bottom.
     
   • Take the driveshaft and jig assemblies in your hands; align the metal rod in the center of the watch_jig_collar's bore. This should self-center. Place the jig assembly upside down on a flat surface and gently push the watch_jig_driveshaft down the bore until it fully seats. Pick up the complete assembly and verify that the driveshaft is vertically aligned and the assembly rotates true. Leave the assembly upside down (driveshaft points to the sky) and allow the epoxy to dry.
     

Tensioner Assembly / High Position Tensioner Assembly

Required parts:

• 1x 608ZZ bearing
• tensioner_pulley model
• tensioner_pulley_mount model

⚠️ This assembly may require epoxy glue and sandpaper/filing. The outter pulley and inner pulley mount should be a tight friction fit. However, not all 608ZZ bearings are made equal and may require a touch of glue to secure the models to the bearing.

Steps:

1. Test fit the tensioner_pulley and 608ZZ bearing; these should should press-fit together. If they do not, lightly sand/file the inner bore of the tensioner_pulley until it begins to fit over the bearing. Drive the pulley down the bearing until the bearing and pulley faces are flush.
   
2. Test fit the bearing's center race overtop of the tensioner_pulley_mount; these should should press-fit together. If they do not, lightly sand/file the mounting peg of the tensioner_pulley_mount until the bearing begins to fit. Drive the bearing down the tensioner's mounting peg until the bearing and peg's faces are flush.
   
3. The bearing's center should not be loose or rotate around the mounting peg. If it does, apply a small drip of epoxy to the peg's base. If you find it difficult to tell, hold the tensioner mount in one hand and rotate the pulley. If you can feel any kind of vibration, you need to apply glue. If the bearing is a tight fit, you should feel no vibration.

Mounting Dowel Assembly

⚠️ You must create 4 of these assemblies

⚠️ This assembly may require sandpaper/filing. The fitment between the mounting_dowel and mounting_dowel_sleeve is a tight friction fit.

Required parts per assembly:

• 2x M3 Heat Set Nuts
• mounting_dowel model
• mounting_dowel_sleeve model

1. Setup your soldering iron. We'll need it to insert our heat set nuts into each dowel end.

2. While your soldering iron is heating up, test fit the mounting_dowel and mounting_dowel_sleeve. They should begin to push together by hand. If your printer is dialed in, these two parts will be a tight friction fit. Flip the assembly upside down so that the open end of the mounting_dowel_sleeve is resting on a flat surface. Gently push down on the mounting_dowel until it slides into place and the face of the dowel and sleeve are flush.

   

3. Read the next step in full before you begin!

4. Take your dowel assembly and one heat set nut. Place the nut on the end of the dowel and make sure it's sitting straight. Take your hot soldering iron and hold it against the nut. After a few seconds the nut should beging to melt into the dowel. Try to get it as straight as can be, and make sure the nut's face is flush with the end of the dowel. If it's gone 'too deep,' or crooked, hold your soldering iron against the nut until it is free to move inside the bore and re-adjust as necessary. It does not need to be perfect. Repeat the same step for the other end of the dowel.

   • Here's a how-to video which shows this process.
     • Note that this creator uses a special tool, which isn't needed. Any regular soldering tip can do this.
   

5. Repeat all these steps for each dowel assembly. By the end, you should have 4 completed assemblies.

Central Support Bearings

Required parts:

• 2x 608ZZ Bearings
• STRUCT_mid_plate model
• STRUCT_back_plate model

1. Lay the STRUCT_back_plate on a flat surface, then lay a 608ZZ bearing overtop of the center housing of each plate.
   
2. Gently tap the bearing down until it sits level and flush inside the center housing.
   
3. Repeat the steps above for STRUCT_mid_plate

Final Assembly

Required parts:

• 4x completed mounting dowel assemblies
• Tensioner assembly
• Watch Jig Assembly
• clutchless_drive_pulley_v2 model
• Assembled STRUCT_front_plate
• Assembled STRUCT_mid_plate
• Assembled STRUCT_back_plate

1. Get all required parts together and make sure they're complete assemblies; bearings press-fitted, heat nuts secure, sleeves, etc.

   

2. Begin by inserting the mounting dowel assemblies into the assembled STRUCT_mid_plate. Take note of the following numbers

   • 1. Note the side that the motor housing is on
   • 2. Note that the thicker end of the mounting dowel assembly faces towards the un-exposed bearing side of the STRUCT_mid_plate
     

3. Insert the remaining mounting dowel assemblies.

   

4. Attach the STRUCT_back_plate. Make sure to align the motor housing holes.

   • Attach the Tensioner Assembly on the lower left hand corner
     

5. Attach the STRUCT_front_plate.

   

6. Apply a small drop of epoxy glue on the watch jig assembly, here:

   

7. Begin inserting the watch jig assembly, but before fully seated, add a small drop of epoxy glue, here:

   

8. Fully seat the watch jig assembly and let dry.

9. Decide whether you want to use a clutchless drive pulley, or a clutch drive pulley. You may only build the clutch assembly if you've purchased the optional spring & felt, and printed these optional models:

   • spring_holder_v3
   • top_hat_v2

   Clutchless Drive

   1. After the assembly is dry, slide on the clutchless_drive_pulley_v2 on the exposed 4mm rod. The model should be a tight fit, but if it isn't, you may attach a hot-melt nut and grub-screw or a fill the hot-melt nut hole with glue. Let dry.
      

   Clutch Drive

   1. Optional: After the assembly is dry, slide an M4 nylon washer down the metal rod. This is optional because you may or may not need it.

   2. Slide the spring_holder_v3 on to the exposed 4mm rod. The model should be a tight fit but must rotate freely around it's center axis.
   3. Place the spring inside the the spring_holder_v3, ensuring the metal rod sits centered within the diameter of the spring; the spring should self center within the spring_holder_v3, inside an inner channel.
   4. Cut a piece of felt the same diameter as the top_hat_v2 and cut a hole dead center; slide the felt onto the rod and let it sit ontop of the spring.
   5. Take one hot-melt nut and melt it into the top_hat_v2's horizontal bore. Thread a screw into the hot-melt nut.
      
   6. Slide the top_hat_v2 down the rod and compress the spring. Tighten the screw in the top hat; it should not rotate on the rod. This will take some trial and error to get the slip-point correct.
   7. Beneath is a reference image to to show the order of each component during assembly. The red disk represents felt.
      

If you're building a non-powered winder, you're done! If you're building a powered winder, continue beneath.

Powered Winder Final Steps

1. Take you motor and solder 2 wires (approx 15cm in length, each) to the contacts on the back of your DC motor.
   
2. Open the drive belt bag, and attach 2 rubber belts along the length of the body. These will act as shockmounts and make the motor a tight fit. Make sure that the bands "cross" at the front of the motor. If you've done it right, the bands will run parallel down the length of the motor.
   
3. Insert the motor into the large diameter bore, through the back and mid plate.
4. Slide the motor_drive_pulley_v3 onto the end of the motor
5. Complete the wiring diagram; If you're building a Winderoo enabled winder, see the Winderoo wiring diagram instead.
6. Insert the completed circuit between mid plate and back plate. You can affix the PCBs and switch using hot glue.
7. Mount a drive belt; loop it around the motor's drive pulley, the central pulley, and the tensioner pulley.
   • If the belt is too loose, try a smaller diameter belt, or swivel the tensioner to tighten the belt.
8. All done!

Coupling Winders

Required parts:

• 4x multi_clip model

• Optional: High Position Tensioner Assembly

1. The multi_clip model can couple OSWW units together.
2. Attach 4 multi_clips over the thicker diameter portions of the dowel assemblies of each OSWW unit - you should have 2 clips on top, and 2 on the bottom.
3. Couple the pulleys of the secondary OSWW to the first OSWW using a spare drive belt. If you need to adjust the tension, swap the tensioner assembly to a High Position Tensioner Assembly

Footnotes

1. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/bore ↩

2. https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/flushness#:~:text=(engineering)%20The%20state%20of%20being,smoothly%20aligned%2C%20not%20sticking%20out. ↩